Engineer Boots in Brown Overdyed Horsebutt (CN-S Last)
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The best seller from Clinch boots and certainly the boot that made Brass Tokyo famous around the World. Built using wooden lasts carved by hand, the Clinch Engineer Boots reproduce style of the 40's engineer boots which were originally designed as a "slip on" boot for railway workers and firefighters.
Specifically, what stands apart the Clinch's version of the Engineers are their wooden lasts, with a wonderful carved shape, created by Mr. Matsuura himself. The fit is close to the foot, contouring it in order for the leather to shape around it. I have specially selected the CN-S or Soft Toe last which is the original last developed by Mr. Matsuura.
The leather itself is gorgeous, the most beautifull I ever seen on a footwear. It is hand over-dyed, to achieve a dark brown color which will develop a beautiful patina. Regarding the stitching, it is done by hand - except for the external stitching that is machine made (but still using Human hands holding the boots). Finally, the outsoles are O'Sullivan's reproduction (this style was patented around the 1900's).
Owning a pair of boots made by Brass Tokyo is owning a pair of boots that are timeless and crafted by hands, while paying the utmost attention to all the elements of the product, down to the smallest details. It is a statement. It is an Art, almost.
- Hand selected European brown overdyed horsebutt
- Hand painted brown overdye leather
Construction & Last
- CN-Soft Toe Last (Standard Clinch Last, see sizing advises)
- O’sullivan’s Sole & Heel
- 11 inches tall
- Tonal Stitching
- Custom Nickel buckles adjusters
- Hand-sewn welted construction
- Handmade at the Brass Shoe Co. repair store, Tokyo, Japan
- Imperfections on the leathers are normal and expected as the leathers used by Brass Tokyo are overdyed by hands. Brush strokes and small imperfections are expected and normal.
- The vamp of the boot features a center "crease". It is normal. Most non lace-up boots have it as it is created during the process where the leather is attached to the last.
General fit and feeling of the Clinch Engineer with CN-S Last
Despite what you can read on the Internet regarding the original CN-S last, it's very comfortable right at the very first wear. The leather is really soft, strong but at the same time supple. The vamp shapes to your forefoot and your feet are « absorbed » by the boots and fit securely like a proper « slip on » boot should. If you have a high volume around the top of your foot (also known as high instep), it is quite challenging to remove the boots - at least when they are new. For those, it is recommended to use a Boot Jack to ease the removal of the boots.
Sizing Recommendations compared to Brannock Device
Luca is a Brannock size US11.
Referring to the international Brannock device for sizing, if you have a wide foot, go with your bannock size ; if you have a narrow or average width foot, size down 0.5.
Personally, I find that the size Clinch 12(US11) is really comfortable width wise, but I need an insole to secure the foot. On the other hand, the Clinch 11(US10) is too tight.
Sizing comparisons with other models / brands:
Luca wears Clinch Engineer CN-Soft Toe (CN-S): 12 (US11) and would probably require an insole to secure the foot a bit more or 11(US10.5) without insole.
Luca also wears: